Bicycle track pumps

What makes a good track pump

It is the most-used workshop tool of all, and the one people most often choose badly. The maximum pressure printed on the packaging barely matters: nobody inflates to 12 bar. What matters is the head, the pressure gauge and the stability.

The pressure gauge: check the scale, not the maximum

A gauge graduated up to 11 or 12 bar is inaccurate at the lower end of the scale, precisely where MTB, gravel and modern wide tyres are inflated — between 1.5 and 3 bar. If you mostly ride on wide tyres, a pump with a shorter scale, or a digital pressure gauge, will give you a much more accurate reading. A gauge positioned at the top of the barrel can be read while standing; positioned near the base, it makes you bend down for every check.

The head: the part that wears out — or lasts

• Heads with with two separate outlets accept Presta and Schrader through two separate openings. Simple and reliable, but you have to flip or change the head.
• Heads with universal lever-operated heads accept both valve types without any adjustment. More convenient for everyday use, especially if you have several bikes at home.
• The with a built-in bleed valve let you release pressure from the hose before disconnecting and make fine downward adjustments. Without them, you lose a little air when disconnecting and never know how much.
• The heads on most major brands’ pumps can be replaced and upgraded : a pump that leaks at the valve does not need to be thrown away.

Tubeless needs something different

Seating the bead of a tubeless tyre on the rim requires a large burst of air in one go, which a standard track pump cannot deliver. This section offers two solutions: pumps with an built-in reservoir, which store pressure in a chamber and then release it all at once, and separate air tanks that connect to an existing pump. If you fit your own tubeless tyres, this is the purchase that will save you a trip to the bike shop.

Base, handle and material

A base that is wide and made of metal stays planted when you press down hard; a narrow plastic base flexes and slips. A wooden or aluminium handle remains comfortable during a long inflation session, whereas plastic digs into your hands. And the hose should be long enough to reach a valve at the top of the wheel without moving the bike — one metre is a good guide.

To find out more: What pressure should I use for my bike tyres

See also: Bicycle hand pumps · Pump parts and accessories · Puncture sealants