MTB saddles

How to choose your MTB saddle

The saddle is the most personal part of a bike, and the only one where price guarantees nothing: an expensive saddle in the wrong size will always be less comfortable than an entry-level saddle of the right width.

Width: the one objective criterion

• It depends on the distance between your sit bones, the two bones you sit on — not your height, weight or overall build.
• Common MTB widths range from 130 to 155 mm.
• Too narrow, the saddle leaves your sit bones unsupported and puts all your weight on soft tissue. This is the most common mistake.
• Too wide, it rubs the inside of your thighs with every pedal stroke.
• Many shops will measure this distance for free; otherwise, there are simple ways to do it at home with corrugated cardboard.

Central cut-out or solid saddle

• Central cut-out or channel : relieves pressure on the perineum. Recommended if you ride in a forward-leaning position or go out for more than an hour.
• Solid saddle : firmer and lighter, it suits riders who experience no discomfort and move around a lot on the saddle.
• It is neither a gimmick nor a necessity: it addresses a specific discomfort.

The profile

• Flat : lets you move forwards and backwards. Suited to cross-country riding and riders who change position often.
• Curved : holds your pelvis in a set position, offering more comfort for enduro and longer rides.
• Short nose : keeps the front clear and makes it easier to adopt a very forward-leaning position, both on descents and steep climbs.

The rails

• Steel : the cheapest option and the most forgiving if overtightened.
• Chromoly : a good balance of weight and price, with good impact resistance.
• Titanium : light and offers a little vibration damping.
• Carbon : the lightest option, but it requires a compatible seatpost clamp and strict adherence to the specified tightening torque. Oval carbon rails do not fit every clamp: check before buying.

What matters more than the saddle itself

The adjustment. Height, fore-aft position and, above all, tilt: raising or lowering the nose by two degrees completely changes how your weight is distributed. Before deciding a saddle is wrong for you, set it perfectly level, then adjust it in one-degree increments. Allow two or three rides to adapt, too: your body needs time to get used to a new saddle.

To find out more: How to choose your MTB saddle

See also: MTB seatposts · MTB seatpost clamps · Dropper seatposts