Bike lubricants and greases

Chain lubricant: it all depends on the weather

A chain lubricant has just one enemy, and it is not wear: it is the dust that sticks to it. The whole range is built around this trade-off: resisting water or not attracting dirt. You cannot have both, which is why there are three types.

• Dry conditions : a thin formula that penetrates, dries and leaves a barely sticky film. The drivetrain stays clean and quiet, but the first heavy downpour washes it away. It is the choice for summer and road riding.
• Wet conditions : a thicker, longer-lasting oil that holds up for several rides in rain and mud. The trade-off is that it attracts dust and forms an abrasive paste if you do not clean it regularly. Essential in winter and for mountain biking.
• Wax : the wax dries to a hard film that picks up almost nothing. It keeps the drivetrain by far the cleanest and, according to measurements, produces the least friction. It does, however, require a chain that has been thoroughly degreased before the first application and more frequent reapplication.
• Ceramic : additives in a dry or wet lubricant to make it last longer. A middle ground, not a fourth type.

The rule that matters more than the brand

Only apply lubricant to a clean chain. Adding fresh oil over the old creates exactly the abrasive paste you want to avoid. The order is always the same: degrease, dry, lubricate link by link, then wipe off the excess — the lubricant that matters is what gets inside the rollers; anything left on the outside only attracts dust.

Electric bikes

An e-bike puts much more torque through the chain, so it wears faster. Lubricants specifically for e-bikes, with more additives, are available for this purpose; on a non-electric bike, they would be unnecessarily sticky.

Greases are a different matter altogether

Grease is not for lubricating a chain: it protects assemblies that move little or not at all. Confusing the two can be costly, because each job calls for a different formula.

• All-purpose grease : bearings, axles, threads and metal seatposts. The one you will use most, so it is worth buying in a large size.
• Carbon assembly paste : it is not a grease; quite the opposite. It contains tiny particles that increase grip and let you use less clamping force on a carbon seatpost or handlebar without it slipping or rotating. Grease here would make the part slip.
• Suspension fork grease : designed for fork stanchions and dust wiper seals, and compatible with suspension elastomers. Ordinary grease can cause these seals to swell.
• Freehub grease : a specialised grease, often very thin. Grease that is too thick in a ratchet hub prevents the pawls from engaging — a common failure after servicing with the wrong product.

Formats and application

The dropper bottle dispenses a precise drop onto each link, making it the right format for the chain. Theaerosol is suitable for cables, pivots and hard-to-reach areas, but it sprays everywhere — never use it near a brake disc. The large bottles and tubs work out much cheaper when you maintain several bikes.

To find out more: How to maintain your chain

See also: Bike cleaners and degreasers · Chain and cassette tools · Work stands